San Felipe introduced the fish taco, or so its loyal inhabitants claim. If you want to try one where those people go, the place is Taquería & Mariscos Adriana on the malecon, facing the beach and the Sea of Cortez.
You won't meet Adriana. She's in Washington State. It's her mother, María Soledad Solorio Figueroa, who has run this stand for 24 years.
There are plenty of salsas--one with avocado, another with cilantro, a chopped fresh salsa and a violently hot red salsa.
Tacos without that red salsa (above) aren't tacos, María says. She makes it with toasted pico de pájaro chiles.
If you can't eat anything that fiery, you can cool the taco down with shredded cabbage, thick crema and a cold beer on the side.
Taquería y Mariscos Adriana, Avenida Malecon 196, San Felipe, Baja California, Mexico.
A REALLY HOT RED SALSA
Inspired by María's salsa, but slightly different
5 dried pico de pájaro chiles, or chiles de árbol
3/4 pound roma tomatoes
1 serrano chile
1 large clove garlic
Salt to taste
Toast the pico de pájaro chiles on a hot griddle until fragrant and slightly darkened, but not burned.
Place the tomatoes, serrano chile and garlic in a saucepan. Add water to cover. Bring to a boil and boil, uncovered, 5 minutes, until the tomatoes are softened.
Drain the vegetables. Remove the peel from the tomatoes. Cut off and discard the stem of the serrano chile.
Place the tomatoes, serrano and pico de pájaro chiles and the garlic in a blender container and blend until pureed. Remove to a bowl and stir in salt to taste.
Makes about 1 1/3 cups.