There he is, with a crisp tortilla chip in his mouth. Next, he'll dip it in the water to soften it for easy eating.
This gull hangs out at a beach on Coronado Island off Loreto in the Sea of Cortez. Tourists hang out there too, eating ceviche and chips (above), which is what might be on board if you've taken a boat tour that supplies food. The bird walks as close as he dares to get his share.
You can see lots of fish in the clear, brilliant waters, even if you don't snorkel. Some are called muleginos, because they are abundant off Mulege to the north. There's a chance you might see dolphins too.
The rock formations are dramatic, the water gorgeous, and at the end of the tour the ceviche awaits. It's as fresh as can be, made with seabass soaked with lime juice and combined with tomatoes, onion, jalapeños and cilantro. Add a Pacifico beer and sit back to admire the beauty of the island or take a swim in the clear, warm water. And feed the bird.
As you fly back to Los Angeles (all flights to Loreto from the United States go through L.A., via Alaska Airlines), you can look down on Coronado, see the white sands of the beach and even the ramadas that shelter visitors. Paradise left behind for another trip.
For boat tours, contact Wild Loreto, which picks up at hotels and several points in town.